Eccentricity and life
Photography
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I think; therefore I am.
Dame Edith Sitwell
I love being asked questions, they make me think...and I love thinking...sometimes caught off guarded, I usually spend weeks responding to them in my head. I wake up at night debating on my own...
I'm frequently asked questions about design, the industry and views on life...these are some recently and frequently asked questions.
I would love to hear your opinion on these...and if you have anything you would like to discuss let me know...
1.What inspires you as a designer?
Everything and anything..music, film, fabric, colour, people...and if you follow this blog you will find many treasures that take my breath away and instigate the creative instinct
2. Is there anybody you would love to design for? Who would be your ideal client?
I dream of designing costumes for a ballet or dance company. I would also love to work in film...maybe with Jane Campion or Tim Burton???
If I could be in anybody's shoes at the moment it would probably be in Karl Lagerfeld's. I would like to experience the endless possibilities he has to develop collections with no budget restrictions and all those marvelous ateliers at his service
Ideal customer? That is a very difficult question, I have many ideal customers already who understand and share my point of view in terms of design, quality and integrity.
3.What is your opinion on the ethical fashion movement?
As Vanessa Friedman quoted..."it is a matter of common sense". Unfortunately I do not believe in the institutionalisation of the Ethical Fashion Movement. I think the public should be informed and educated in this matter but I fear many use this as a marketing gimmick and public have become misinformed on the fundamental intentions of ethical fashion..
I experienced this first hand when a women came into our shop in Dublin and mentioned she wanted a 'Fair Trade' piece for an event. The irony is.. What is more fair trade than buying directly from the person who has designed or made the piece? In this case profit distribution is beneficial to producer, designer and client. Carbon footprint is minimal as pieces are made locally, locally sourced fabric etc etc.. she insisted that the products in our shop weren't fair trade because we didn't have swing tags by an approved organisation.
There is an interesting video on the Luxury Channel called Going Green: the Future of Luxury
I will talk about this issue in depth sometime in the future...
4. How do you think social media has affected the fashion industry?
It has had a huge impact. Most companies recognise it has become an essential part of the communication strategy. It brings the brand closer to the customer and it has also broken down barriers and degrees of separation.
5. What are some of your favourite fashion blogs/websites?
Diane Pernet'sShaded view on Fashion. Before I even knew the concept of a blog I became a loyal follower of this dark and alternative view on the fashion industry. It was the first place I saw Gareth Pugh.
The Luxury Chronicles serious and intelligent stories which Helene feeds us daily
Style Rookie 14 year old Tavi's blog, I do love it. She reminds me of a younger version of myself. Her judgement sometimes is quite profound for someone her age
Limi Feu's blog, I'm obsessed with Japan so to be able to see how things are in Japan from someone in the industry is wonderful
Style Saloniste, Diane Dorrans Saeks wonderful wonderful wonderful blog...(more style than fashion... absolutely inspiring)
Innewyorkparistomorrow, Blog by a fashion pioneer. Her blog is varied and poetic. Secrets stories of the past, she has many yet to confess.
6. Who is your favourite journalist?
I like Cathy Horn and Colin McDowell
7. How do you think the death of Alexander McQueen will affect the fashion industry?
Sadly I think the impact is more personal than on an industry level.
We have lost all the wonderful future collection and shows he would have done had he stayed on...We have lost one of fashion's greatest entertainers.
But history has proven that someone will appear... hopefully sooner than later... and will sweep us all off our feet, as McQueen did season after season
8. Where do you source the materials of your collection?
Many places, Italy, France, UK and India
9. Are you influenced by other designers?
Technically.. no. But growing up in Spain and with an interest in fashion, those designers who I looked up to in terms of style and philosophy are still part of how I work and who I am so these would be of some influence in 'matter' more than in 'form'.
Balenciaga, Sybilla, Isabel Berz..and the list does go on...
10. Where do you shop and what do you look for in a garment?
Paris, one of my favourite places on this planet. I buy very very very little and if I do I will wear it until it falls apart, so durability and timelessness are important. My purchases are driven more by my love affair with the piece than if it will or will not suit me...
11. What are you working on at the moment?
I'm working on a small resort collection for my customers in the US and also on the AW1o Exclusive Collection
12. What advice would you give to this years NYFDA's finalists?
Get as much experience as you can.
Ask questions, listen and watch. Absorb knowledge..learn learn learn
Keep in touch with your peers and keep building up contacts through the years.. it's a small industry and it helps to know as many people as possible..
If you decide to set up your own company..be true to yourself, be professional, keep your feet on the ground and work with integrity. It is hard to repair bad reputation so don't build your brand around a false image.
Treat everyone with respect, those who assist you now could be in a different position a few years down the line...and nobody is impressed by 'divaish' behaviour
Knights and angels
To choose a career in the creative world is a curse and a calling, I may have mentioned this in some occasion before. There is no separation from work and life. Emotions fluctuate. This is just part of the deal. Sometimes it's hard to control the status of the spirit. But call it serendipity or coincidence, I'm lucky to have a handfull of what I could only define as knights in shining armour or angels.
Without knowing, they appear in my life when needed with small and not so small gestures that help renew the soul and keep me on the right path.
One of these angels/knights left a book in the shop last week and I have spent the past few days in heaven immersed in its wonderful images....
Merci!!!!!!
Q&A about Fashion
Last week I was invited by Emma Kelly from Elevate to take part in an industry talk organised by Nokia for the 2010 Young Fashion Designer Awards.
One of Ireland's leading stylists Sonia Lennon and myself hosted the afternoon and people were invited to take part in a question and answers session
Before we started I was given a list of very interesting questions, many subjects which we weren't able to cover so I thought it would be great to go through the list and share some thoughts with you...so here it goes...
1. what inspires you as a designer?
Everything and anything..music, film, fabric, colour, people...and if you follow this blog you will find many treasures that take my breath away and instigate the creative instinct
2. Is there anybody you would love to design for? Who would be your ideal client?
I dream of designing costumes for a ballet or dance company. I would also love to work in film...maybe with Jane Campion or Tim Burton???
If I could be in anybody's shoes at the moment it would probably be in Karl Lagerfeld's. I would like to experience the endless possibilities he has to develop collections with no budget restrictions and all those marvelous ateliers at his service
Ideal customer? That is a very difficult question, I have many ideal customers already who understand and share my point of view in terms of design, quality and integrity.
3.What is your opinion on the ethical fashion movement?
As Vanessa Friedman quoted..."it is a matter of common sense". Unfortunately I do not believe in the institutionalisation of the Ethical Fashion Movement. I think the public should be informed and educated in this matter but I fear many use this as a marketing gimmick and public have become misinformed on the fundamental intentions of ethical fashion..
I experienced this first hand when a women came into our shop in Dublin and mentioned she wanted a 'Fair Trade' piece for an event. The irony is.. What is more fair trade than buying directly from the person who has designed or made the piece? In this case profit distribution is beneficial to producer, designer and client. Carbon footprint is minimal as pieces are made locally, locally sourced fabric etc etc.. she insisted that the products in our shop weren't fair trade because we didn't have swing tags by an approved organisation.
There is an interesting video on the Luxury Channel called Going Green: the Future of Luxury
I will talk about this issue in depth sometime in the future...
4. How do you think social media has affected the fashion industry?
It has had a huge impact. Most companies recognise it has become an essential part of the communication strategy. It brings the brand closer to the customer and it has also broken down barriers and degrees of separation.
5. What are some of your favourite fashion blogs/websites?
Diane Pernet's Shaded view on Fashion. Before I even knew the concept of a blog I became a loyal follower of this dark and alternative view on the fashion industry. It was the first place I saw Gareth Pugh.
The Luxury Chronicles serious and intelligent stories which Helene feeds us daily
Style Rookie 14 year old Tavi's blog, I do love it. She reminds me of a younger version of myself. Her judgement sometimes is quite profound for someone her age
Limi Feu's blog, I'm obsessed with Japan so to be able to see how things are in Japan from someone in the industry is wonderful
Innewyorkparistomorrow, Blog by a fashion pioneer. Her blog is varied and poetic. Secrets stories of the past, she has many yet to confess.
6. Who is your favourite journalist?
I like Cathy Horn and Colin McDowell
7. How do you think the death of Alexander McQueen will affect the fashion industry?
Sadly I think the impact is more personal than on an industry level.
We have lost all the wonderful future collection and shows he would have done had he stayed on...We have lost one of fashion's greatest entertainers.
But history has proven that someone will appear... hopefully sooner than later... and will sweep us all off our feet, as McQueen did season after season
8. Where do you source the materials of your collection?
Many places, Italy, France, UK and India
9. Are you influenced by other designers?
Technically.. no. But growing up in Spain and with an interest in fashion, those designers who I looked up to in terms of style and philosophy are still part of how I work and who I am so these would be of some influence in 'matter' more than in 'form'.
Balenciaga, Sybilla, Isabel Berz..and the list does go on...
10. Where do you shop and what do you look for in a garment?
Paris, one of my favourite places on this planet. I buy very very very little and if I do I will wear it until it falls apart, so durability and timelessness are important. My purchases are driven more by my love affair with the piece than if it will or will not suit me...
11. What are you working on at the moment?
I'm working on a small resort collection for my customers in the US and also on the AW1o Exclusive Collection
12. What advice would you give to this years NYFDA's finalists?
Get as much experience as you can.
Ask questions, listen and watch. Absorb knowledge..learn learn learn
Keep in touch with your peers and keep building up contacts through the years.. it's a small industry and it helps to know as many people as possible..
If you decide to set up your own company..be true to yourself, be professional, keep your feet on the ground and work with integrity. It is hard to repair bad reputation so don't build your brand around a false image.
Treat everyone with respect, those who assist you now could be in a different position a few years down the line...and nobody is impressed by 'divaish' behaviour
Thanks to Emma for inviting me to do this and to Nokia for hosting it and kindly giving me a telephone
New talent in the making
Ireland is a tiny country, but its talent is inversely proportional to it's size. Nothing excites me more than to see young designers showcase their potential.
Every year Nokia sponsors a great event to help new generations present their dream creations.
Don't miss the opportunity to see the best of best at the Nokia Young Fashion Designer Award Exhibition which will take place at Powerscourt Townhouse Centre in Dublin from Thursday to Sunday
For more information check out Nokia's site
As a committed rescuer of interesting pieces of the past.....this video was made last year by Nokia with one of Ireland's greatest talents Tim Ryan
We are counting the hours to have his collection in the shop!!!!
Nymphenburg Photographic series - Studios
Frank Sorbier, Paris
Igor Sapurin, Moscow
Gustavo Lins, Paris
Gustavo Lins, Paris
Thank you..... Rick Owens
Dear Rick Owens,
Inspired by one of my favourite blogs, the Luxury Chronicles, who regularly writes incredibly inspiring letters to different people in the industry. I felt compelled, after reading your interview in the Financial Times today, to 'borrow' her format and send you a small note to thank you for your contribution to my sanity.
In an industry where one's integrity is constantly challenged. You have been an ABSOLUTE inspiration for all of those who can't, or try not, to conform with the rules established by the powers that be, and make the fashion industry an almost impossible world to work in.
Thank you for your very precious interviews, which I keep in a safe drawer and read over and over again. Specially, when in doubt of my purpose in this field.
Kindly...a true admirer,
Eilis Boyle
Vanessa Friedman article in How to Spend IT
one stitch at a time...
'DO RE MI'......fashion weeks
A week ago a very good friend ,who is making her way into ' the industry', asked me what trends did I think were going to be strong next season.
As a keen observer and participant of what has been going on......I decided to do a round up of what I think has defined the past few weeks in fashion.
1. Social media is here to stay
Twitter, blogs and live online presentations have globalised the 'show' experience and brought the designer closer to the public. I was an initial sceptic, but my opinion instantly changed when I saw the first live streamed show on the LFW website.
Tavi for Pop Magazine via Very very beautiful
2. Bloggers claim front row territory.
Tavi, Susie Bubble and other bloggers have managed to breakthrough a hierarchical, inflexible and slightly archaic 'media' industry, claiming their undisputed influence and place in the fashion world.
Lots of filtering still required but they are here to stay too!
Celine AW10 via Fashionista
3. Trend 'numero uno': Fabric over adornment
For the first time in many seasons we see the return of beautiful, unpretentious and incredibly well cut garments. The attention goes from adornment to the essence of the pieces. Those who mastered this: Prada, Dries and the most talked about and probably influential collection of the season Phoebe Philo's range for Celine.
I would like to see high street attempt copying this trend.
It 'ain't' possible my friend.
Cashmere/wool is cashmere/wool and to buy exquisite Italian mill quality you are talking around €100 to €300 a mtr ...or more....try doing a fabulous coat in a wool polyester mix with 1% cashmere...don't be fooled it WILL look cheap...and adornments to make it look expensive...are NOT WELCOME!!
4. Trend 'numero dos'...Fur
PETA's terribly managed campaigns have seen very little compassion in the hands of designers this season. Fur has been present in far too many shows. As an animal lover I hope this trend doesn't permeate commercially and just stays on the catwalk where it shouldn't have appeared in the first place.
5. Colours.....Earthy earthy earthy. WHITE, black and grey
6. And this season's crown goes to....ALEXANDER MCQUEEN... if there is anything that has been of any significance this season it has been the absence of Alexander McQueen. I still get teary writing about it...it is such a loss! But as many very talented creators he left us at his peak and with the most extraordinary collection which was shown in an intimate 'modest' presentation (for McQueen standard) but which clearly showed how his mastery was unquestionable, no matter where or how it was presented.
The debate continues if he may or may not have been a genius...
Photographs via Style Zeitgeist
in my books he certainly is.
Yves Saint Laurent
'Haute couture consists of secrets whispered from generation to generation'
Yves Saint Laurent
La Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent and le Petit Palais
Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville
will showcase Yves Saint Laurent's first retrospective exhibition
11th of March until 29th of August
I suspect a trip to Paris will be happening soon! When will we go Helen???
Ghosts
For who can wonder that man should feel a vague belief in tales of disembodied spirits wandering through those places which they once dearly affected, when he himself, scarcely less separated from his old world than they, is for ever lingering upon past emotions and bygone times, and hovering, the ghost of his former self, about the places and people that warmed his heart of old?
CHARLES DICKENS
Oscars
Via Iconicphotos
Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly
Backstage at the 28th Annual Academy Awards
March 21, 1956
The best news this week!
Today I learnt that the incredible visual storyteller/photographer
Tim Walker is working on his first film 'The Lost Explorer' based on a story by Patrick McGrath.
It promises to be a visual delight
To read the news click on Vogue
Have a wonderful weekend!
Jade
Impossible to imagine anyone, or anything, stealing the limelight from wonderful Chacha.
During this shoot Jade silently glided herself straight into the centre of the frame, seconds before snapping each shot.
She posed as if knowing, she was meant to be there
Thank you for such a beautiful shoot.
This post is in your memory.
The Great 'Dame' Jade
Elegance and the mind
Diana Vreeland by Deborah Turbeville
'The only real elegance is in the mind;
if you've got that, the rest really comes from it.'
Marchesa Luisa Casati
Marchesa Luisa Casati
'But her alchemy was much more complex, producing many other marvels. By what fire did she transmute the substance of her life into beauties of such moving power?
She demonstrated how true it is that all enchantment is a madness induced with art.
But what was the real essence of this creature?
Was she aware of her continuous metamorphosis, or was she impenetrable to herself, excluded from her own mystery?'
Gabriele D'Annunzio
My work
- Black and white
- Glendalough with Peter Evers
- Impossible dresses and soul savers
- Killeen with Patrick McHugh
- La Catedral Studios Shoot
- Laundry Lady
- one stitch at a time...
- Pieces is progress
- Secret Knitwear Collection
- Sneak Peak - Sunday Business Post
- The collection goes to Paris
- The first Spring Summer Collection, 5 years ago
- The Life of Yarn
- Winter
This is Couture
Not so silent ramblings..
Designers
Irish Fashion
Daily inspiration
- abundance
- automatism
- Bluetramontana Style
- Colin McDowell
- Couture and confection at Rue Vieuville
- Helen James
- Ill Seen, Ill Said
- In New York Paris Tomorrow
- le style et la matière
- LIMI's NOTE
- MRS TREFUSIS TAKES A TAXI
- Pista Clandestina
- Porcelains and Peacocks
- Sea of Shoes
- sfgirlbybay - bohemian modern style from a san francisco girl
- The Errant Æsthete
- The French Mouse
- The Luxe Chronicles
- the style saloniste
- up and down town
Irish friends
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