Silent Storyteller

Thank you!!

 

I would love to thank everyone

who took part in our online launch on Friday!!  

 

Numbers and celebrations..one year on!

  Christer Strömholm, Ingalill, 1979 via Abundance

More than a year and a half ago, my friend Helen James and I started talking about doing a blog. It was exactly a year, this month, that I started blogging.

This is post number 200.

I really can't explain what having a blog has meant to me, and how it has changed my life. With 10,000 views a month...it has opened a whole new world, which I can't imagine doing without.

Living as a designer in Ireland, with all the magic that it has, it's also very secluded and isolated.

Being alone, or feeling alone, is just part of the business...

Certainly for someone who has always been considered a foreigner or outsider no matter where I was living...the blog has connected  me with like minded people and with some, who a year ago , I  would have never imagined having access too.

It has also brought me closer to people in the 'real' world...being vocal and open, has made others realise it's OK to feel and to fear, to have insecurities  and to have an opinion...

The blog has also helped me be public about my admiration for those  who I care about, writing dozens of  'love letters' to thank them for their influence.

It has also helped me overcome extreme shyness about showcasing my work, a  'publish' click is easier than a phone call!. And has also helped over come my fear of writing in English.

Thank you so much dropping by, it has been a great year...!

Dreams

 

Dreams pass into the reality of action.

 From the actions stems the dream again;

 and this interdependence produces the highest form of living.

Anais Nin

 

Maxfield Los Angeles Photograph by Peter Bennett 

 

 A month and half from Paris Fashion Week

..still undecided about showing or not...

This is a wish list of shops I would like to see stock my collection in the next seasons.

 Fortunately seven of the shops mentioned have or have had the collection for several seasons.

 I have decided to included them as they would have been part of my  list 5 years ago

...and still are an important part of my dream!

 

Havana, Dublin Ireland

Kalu, Naas Ireland

Browns, London

Blake, Chicago USA

Fetneh Blake, Laguna Beach USA

Maxfield, L.A. USA

United Arrows, Tokyo Japan

10 Corso Como, Tokyo Japan

Joyce, Hong Kong

Villa Moda, Kuwait

If, Dubai

Dover Street Market, London

L'Eclaireur, Paris France

 

and of course Savannah, Santa Monica.. my first US shop!!!

 

Gowns, patriotism and double standards

 

Earlier this year actress Carey Mulligan was criticised for turning up (and winning) at the Baftas in a dress which was not by a British designer. I never understood why the controversy of her choosing the dress of her dreams, regardless where the creator is from.

Since when did fashion become an expression of one's patriotic responsibility?

You wouldn't expect everyone to wear American designs at the Oscars, so why the double standards when the occassion is 'regional'

Recent events in Ireland have proven that some press enjoy provoking the public with scandals regarding people's dress choice and the relationship this has with their national commitment...Does this make sense???

About a month ago the daughter of the former Taoiseach* decided to marry in a  gown designed by Oscar de la Renta. The tabloid press picked up on the story and twisted it into an 'unpatriotic' affair. Irish designers where questioned and put on the spot about her choice of a  foreign designer over an Irish one.

Part of the argument (apart from the baggage she carries from her father's actions as head of state) was the need for public figures to be seen as supporting local industry. But the irony is that what one person wears on a specific occasion will not change the state  of our economy.

Should all countries adopt same campaign it would be the end of the Irish Fashion Industry.  Everyone would be supporting their own indigenous designers and we would have nowhere to export too. .

I wonder if  those who wrote, and those who favoured the debate against her choice, buy Irish labels on a regular basis? Probably not...and to make matters worse those same 'tabloids' abstained from using  Irish designers in their fashion pages for many months in 2009 'for compassionate reasons' (hardly anything  over a certain price was featured) bringing the small manufacturing facilities in the country  to their knees. Making  these 'journalists' partially responsable for the situation in the first place .  

The conclusion...........well we should be free to choose whoever, wherever and whatever we want to wear and maybe it's time to practice what we preach....

 

*Taoiseach  - head of Irish governement

Louise Bourgeois

Via Art Tattler

 

My mother was a restorer, she repaired broken things. I don't do that. I destroy things. I cannot go the straight line. I must destroy, rebuild, destroy again. My rhythm is not the same. My mother moved in a straight line: I go from one extreme to the other.

Louise Bourgeois

December 25, 1911 – May 31, 2010

 

NYT

 

 

 

Let the fun begin

On your mark get set ...go!!!

 

Last week I was involved in a mentoring session organised by the girls of Re Dress as part of their annual Fashion Evolution event. I met so many wonderful aspiring creative talents.

Since then I have received quite a few emails asking for further advice, so I thought I'd put a post together focusing on questions of those who are attempting to set up their own label.

I'm pretty sure I'm not  the best person to give advise, I don't always practice what I preach.. but that doesn't mean I don't want too...sometimes I need to say it to myself..and the universe.. to be convinced!

So, if  you are working on your first collection these are a few tips...

1. Get experience,  and I know this might sound like a step back, it will be worth it. It's the only way to learn the knots and blots of the industry. Learn from their success and their mistakes. If you haven't worked for another designer for a few seasons, at least, I would say don't even think of setting up your own label.

2. Once you've gained some experience, research as much as you can in terms of the concept of your creations and who you think your customer will be. I really believe you only have one chance to give a first impression so make sure your designs are up to scratch. I would rather wait for a year or two before putting something out there that I know is not as perfect as can be.

3. Keep your first collection small and concise. A 6 to 10 piece  strong collection can be enough to seduce your customers. Don't try to do everything. You can build up the collection in the future, but it will be easier to grab your customer's attention if you have a specific and clear concept.

4. Pricing. Once you've chosen a design concept and the market you think it will be for, be very conscious about costs and pricing. If you are designing for a younger market price point must be adequate to their spending capacity ( this comment is very specific to Ireland..in other countries where there is a bigger population you will find a more diverse customer base with a broad  range of budgets)

5. Don't under price your collection. The temptation is to undercut yourself at the beginning trying to get into good shops. It will be hard to charge what you should be charging later on.

6. Capacity. Be very clear what your limitations are, financially and production wise. Say no when you are unable to commit. It's better to say no than to say yes and then letting people down.

6. Stay small for as long as possible. It's the only way to learn without making huge mistakes or taking huge risks.

7. Build up a private customer base as well as nourishing a few shops. Don't step on their toes by selling at discount, this may come back to haunt you.

8. Press are always looking for new stories and great images. Invest in a good shoot, it doesn't have to be overproduced or costly..having great images is priceless. Write a press release. The story is so important now. Everyone from customers to journalists want to know the story behind the label so make sure there is soul in what you're doing.

 

If there are any other questions I haven't covered or you'd like something more specific let me know!

Creativity and obsession

Christian Amman

 

'The creative habit is like a drug.

The particular obsession changes, but the excitement,

the thrill of your creation lasts'

Henry Moore
 

After weeks, and months, of distraction and slight apathy, I have been involved in a project which is so exciting I'm unable to focus on anything else. I will reveal at a later date, but for now it’s Paris again this week. Meeting my Japanese friends and also buying fabric

 

National Drawing Day

 Marchesa Casati by Giovanni Boldini

 

Organised by the National Gallery in Dublin, tomorrow we celebrate

National Drawing Day

There are venues all across Ireland participating in the excellent event

click here

 

With very little chance of rain, it looks like it will be a promising weekend.

So put on sun protection, dust your pencil case and start sketching

Have a great weekend!

Waving Good Bye

It's official, my dear dear friend Helen James is moving to New York, I'm too sad to write about my personal loss, but as part of a greater creative community I'm very worried that so many are leaving, we lost Tim Ryan a few years ago, we lost Helen Cody and now Helen James...God only knows how many more will leave. I know of another top Irish designer who has emigration on the cards...

What message does this send to younger generations??.. That there certainly is no hope to be in this business whilst staying in this country? Paul Costello, John Rocha, Sharon Wauchob, Orla Keily...all work permanently or have some temporary base abroad.

Is this the only solution? Will we all have to leave? 

Even though I'm an eternal optimist and I love Ireland...specially this time of the year..I wouldn't blink twice if the opportunity arose..

What came in the post...

A few months ago I received a phone call about a journalist from Japan who would like to interview me. A couple of days later we met for afternoon tea at  The Westbury and talked for hours. Today I received in the post the newspaper with the article, plus a 'thank you' post it!

 

I'm often asked why I am so enchanted by Japan, and after going through the obvious aesthetics passions. There is something about their manners and mind that equally mesmerises me.

 

The interview was a very deep conversation about cultural differences and how the environment one works in has a reflection on ones work, we compared Spanish design to Irish design, we talked politics, economics  and the industry.

 

Mr. Kanno's English was really good, and although he had a translator, we managed to understand each other fairly well.... our disccussions were profound and complex.

 

It is very rare that subjects of fashion interviews are about the bigger picture and seem to be more about what top suits what body shape or what celebrities wear your clothes.

 

I wish to thank him so much for the interview, for publishing part of it and also for sending me the newspaper!

 

 

 

P.S. I have not scanned the article because I'm too shy to share the 'Yoda'  look a like photograph he took of me..; )

I think; therefore I am.

 

Dame Edith Sitwell

I love being asked questions, they make me think...and I love thinking...sometimes caught off guarded, I usually spend weeks responding to them in my head. I wake up at night debating on my own... 

I'm frequently asked questions about design, the industry and views on life...these are some recently and frequently asked questions.

I would love to hear your opinion on these...and if you have anything you would like to discuss let me know...

1.What inspires you as a designer? 

Everything and anything..music, film, fabric, colour, people...and if you follow this blog you will find many treasures that take my breath away and instigate the creative instinct

2. Is there anybody you would love to design for? Who would be your ideal client?

I dream of designing costumes for a ballet or dance company.  I would also love to work in film...maybe with Jane Campion or  Tim Burton???

If I could be in anybody's shoes at the moment it would probably be in Karl Lagerfeld's. I would like to experience the endless possibilities he has to develop collections with no budget restrictions and all those marvelous ateliers at his service

Ideal customer? That is a very difficult question, I have many ideal customers already who understand and share my point of view in terms of design, quality and integrity.

3.What is your opinion on the ethical fashion movement?

As Vanessa Friedman quoted..."it is a matter of common sense". Unfortunately I do not believe in the institutionalisation of the Ethical Fashion Movement. I think the public should be informed and educated in this matter but  I fear many use this as a marketing gimmick and public have become misinformed on the fundamental intentions of ethical fashion..

I experienced this first hand when a women came into our shop in Dublin and mentioned she wanted a 'Fair Trade' piece for an event. The irony is.. What is more fair trade than buying directly from the person who has designed or made the piece? In this case profit distribution is beneficial to producer, designer and client. Carbon footprint is minimal as pieces are made locally, locally sourced fabric etc etc.. she insisted that the products in our shop weren't fair trade because we didn't have swing tags by an approved organisation.

There is an interesting video on the Luxury Channel called Going Green: the Future of Luxury

I will talk about this issue in depth sometime in the future...

4. How do you think social media has affected the fashion industry?

It has had a huge impact. Most companies recognise it has become an essential part of the communication strategy. It brings the brand closer to the customer and it has also broken down barriers and degrees of separation. 

5. What are some of your favourite fashion blogs/websites?

Diane Pernet'sShaded view on Fashion. Before I even knew the concept of a blog I became a loyal follower of this dark and alternative view on the fashion industry. It was the first place I saw Gareth Pugh.

The Luxury Chronicles serious and intelligent stories which Helene feeds us daily

Style Rookie 14 year old Tavi's blog, I do love it. She reminds me of a younger version of myself. Her judgement sometimes is quite profound for someone her age

Limi Feu's blog, I'm obsessed with Japan so to be able to see how things are in Japan from someone in the industry is wonderful

Style Saloniste, Diane Dorrans Saeks wonderful wonderful wonderful blog...(more style than fashion... absolutely inspiring)

Innewyorkparistomorrow, Blog by a fashion pioneer. Her blog is varied and poetic. Secrets stories of the past, she has many yet to confess. 

6. Who is your favourite journalist?

I like Cathy Horn and Colin McDowell

7. How do you think the death of Alexander McQueen will affect the fashion industry?

Sadly I think the impact is more personal than on an industry level.

We have lost all the wonderful future collection and shows he would have done had he stayed on...We have lost one of  fashion's greatest entertainers.

But history has proven that someone will appear... hopefully sooner than later... and will sweep us all off our feet, as McQueen did season after season

8. Where do you source the materials of your collection?

Many places, Italy, France, UK and India

9. Are you influenced by other designers?

Technically.. no. But growing up in Spain and with an interest in fashion, those designers who I looked up to in terms of style and philosophy are still part of how I work and who I am so these would be of some influence in 'matter' more than in 'form'.

Balenciaga, Sybilla, Isabel Berz..and the list does go on...

10. Where do you shop and what do you look for in a garment?

Paris, one of my favourite places on this planet. I buy very very very little and if I do I will wear it until it falls apart, so durability and timelessness are important. My purchases are driven more by my love affair with the piece than if it will or will not suit me...

11. What are you working on at the moment?

I'm working on a small resort collection for my customers in the US and also on the AW1o Exclusive Collection 

12. What advice would you give to this years NYFDA's finalists?

Get as much experience as you can. 

Ask questions, listen and watch. Absorb knowledge..learn learn learn

Keep in touch with your peers and keep building up contacts through the years.. it's a small industry and it helps to know as many people as possible..

If you decide to set up your own company..be true to yourself, be professional, keep your feet on the ground and work with integrity. It is hard to repair bad reputation so don't build your brand around a false image.

Treat everyone with respect, those who assist you now could be in a different position a few years down the line...and nobody is impressed by 'divaish' behaviour

Knights and angels

To choose a career in the creative world is a curse and a calling, I may have mentioned this in some occasion before. There is no separation from work and life. Emotions fluctuate. This is just part of the deal. Sometimes it's hard to control the status of the spirit. But call it serendipity or coincidence, I'm lucky to have a handfull of what I could only define as knights in shining armour or angels. 

Without knowing, they appear in my life when needed with small and not so small gestures that help renew the soul and keep me on the right path.

One of these angels/knights left  a book in the shop last week and I have spent the past few days in heaven immersed in its wonderful images....

Merci!!!!!!

Q&A about Fashion

Last week I was invited by Emma Kelly from Elevate to take part in an industry talk organised by Nokia for the 2010 Young Fashion Designer Awards. 

One of Ireland's leading stylists Sonia Lennon and myself hosted the afternoon and people were invited to take part in a question and answers session

 

Before we started I was given a list of very interesting questions, many subjects which we weren't able to cover so I thought it would be great to go through the list and share some thoughts with you...so here it goes...

1. what inspires you as a designer? 

Everything and anything..music, film, fabric, colour, people...and if you follow this blog you will find many treasures that take my breath away and instigate the creative instinct

2. Is there anybody you would love to design for? Who would be your ideal client?

I dream of designing costumes for a ballet or dance company.  I would also love to work in film...maybe with Jane Campion or  Tim Burton???

If I could be in anybody's shoes at the moment it would probably be in Karl Lagerfeld's. I would like to experience the endless possibilities he has to develop collections with no budget restrictions and all those marvelous ateliers at his service

Ideal customer? That is a very difficult question, I have many ideal customers already who understand and share my point of view in terms of design, quality and integrity.

3.What is your opinion on the ethical fashion movement?

As Vanessa Friedman quoted..."it is a matter of common sense". Unfortunately I do not believe in the institutionalisation of the Ethical Fashion Movement. I think the public should be informed and educated in this matter but  I fear many use this as a marketing gimmick and public have become misinformed on the fundamental intentions of ethical fashion..

I experienced this first hand when a women came into our shop in Dublin and mentioned she wanted a 'Fair Trade' piece for an event. The irony is.. What is more fair trade than buying directly from the person who has designed or made the piece? In this case profit distribution is beneficial to producer, designer and client. Carbon footprint is minimal as pieces are made locally, locally sourced fabric etc etc.. she insisted that the products in our shop weren't fair trade because we didn't have swing tags by an approved organisation.

There is an interesting video on the Luxury Channel called Going Green: the Future of Luxury

I will talk about this issue in depth sometime in the future...

4. How do you think social media has affected the fashion industry?

It has had a huge impact. Most companies recognise it has become an essential part of the communication strategy. It brings the brand closer to the customer and it has also broken down barriers and degrees of separation. 

5. What are some of your favourite fashion blogs/websites?

Diane Pernet's Shaded view on Fashion. Before I even knew the concept of a blog I became a loyal follower of this dark and alternative view on the fashion industry. It was the first place I saw Gareth Pugh.

The Luxury Chronicles serious and intelligent stories which Helene feeds us daily

Style Rookie 14 year old Tavi's blog, I do love it. She reminds me of a younger version of myself. Her judgement sometimes is quite profound for someone her age

Limi Feu's blog, I'm obsessed with Japan so to be able to see how things are in Japan from someone in the industry is wonderful

Innewyorkparistomorrow, Blog by a fashion pioneer. Her blog is varied and poetic. Secrets stories of the past, she has many yet to confess. 

6. Who is your favourite journalist?

I like Cathy Horn and Colin McDowell

7. How do you think the death of Alexander McQueen will affect the fashion industry?

Sadly I think the impact is more personal than on an industry level.

We have lost all the wonderful future collection and shows he would have done had he stayed on...We have lost one of  fashion's greatest entertainers.

But history has proven that someone will appear... hopefully sooner than later... and will sweep us all off our feet, as McQueen did season after season

8. Where do you source the materials of your collection?

Many places, Italy, France, UK and India

9. Are you influenced by other designers?

Technically.. no. But growing up in Spain and with an interest in fashion, those designers who I looked up to in terms of style and philosophy are still part of how I work and who I am so these would be of some influence in 'matter' more than in 'form'.

Balenciaga, Sybilla, Isabel Berz..and the list does go on...

10. Where do you shop and what do you look for in a garment?

Paris, one of my favourite places on this planet. I buy very very very little and if I do I will wear it until it falls apart, so durability and timelessness are important. My purchases are driven more by my love affair with the piece than if it will or will not suit me...

11. What are you working on at the moment?

I'm working on a small resort collection for my customers in the US and also on the AW1o Exclusive Collection 

12. What advice would you give to this years NYFDA's finalists?

Get as much experience as you can. 

Ask questions, listen and watch. Absorb knowledge..learn learn learn

Keep in touch with your peers and keep building up contacts through the years.. it's a small industry and it helps to know as many people as possible..

If you decide to set up your own company..be true to yourself, be professional, keep your feet on the ground and work with integrity. It is hard to repair bad reputation so don't build your brand around a false image.

Treat everyone with respect, those who assist you now could be in a different position a few years down the line...and nobody is impressed by 'divaish' behaviour

Thanks to Emma for inviting me to do this and to Nokia for hosting it and kindly giving me  a telephone

New talent in the making

 

Ireland is a tiny country, but its talent is inversely proportional to it's size. Nothing excites me more than to see young designers showcase their potential.

Every year Nokia sponsors a great event to help new generations present their dream creations.

Don't miss the opportunity to see the best of best at the Nokia Young Fashion Designer Award Exhibition which will take place at Powerscourt Townhouse Centre in Dublin from Thursday to Sunday 

For more information check out Nokia's site

As a committed rescuer of interesting pieces of the past.....this video was made last year by Nokia with one of Ireland's greatest talents Tim Ryan

We are counting the hours to have his collection in the shop!!!!

Technology, new media and fashion

 

 We are half way through London Fashion Week and there has been a change in the industry.

 It was only last season that Alexander McQueenwas breaking boundaries with his online live streamed show. Fast forward 5 months and LFW have been live steaming several shows a day.

I must confess I was initially slightly sceptical, but I'm now convinced there is no looking back .

Pleasantly surprised by the quality, visually and sound, of the shows online.

Not the same is to be said by the whole tweeting business, but what can one expect from 140 character text. Apart from very few (and this will be part of the natural selection process and filtering of those who have something new to offer and those who don't) Very little interesting information is given through tweets. And certainly nothing regarding the clothes they are seeing. The constant name dropping of irrelevant people that are seated or queuing in front of other people.... honestly who cares....?

But I'm incredibly excited at how the new media channels are impacting our industry, the changes are occurring fast and I have a feeling it is bringing the designer closer to the consumer, which ultimately will benefit everyone
 

Temptation....

As the Talent for Haiti auction is coming into full swing. (It starts next Thursday) The flow of magical treasures has been disturbing my sleep  with the temptation to start bidding on so many beautiful things. 

One of the generous donors, who also happens to be one of my favourite people on this planet, Peter O'Brien, as posted here and here and here...(I've probably embarrassed him enough by now..)

Smart, funny, candidly truthful (a rare quality I seriously admire) and with incredible taste, he has donated a couple of his fabulous illustrations.

I have the honour to be their temporary guardian until they are sent to the very lucky winner of the auction, should I not be the highest bidder.. ; )

 

  

 

Are you talented?

 

You have, no doubt, heard of the awful tragedy in Haiti.  

Myself and some other Irish designers are organising an online auction to raise funds.

 

We have lots of ideas and some amazing things already donated, but thought I would ask you my talented readers for input, any original thoughts ?.

 

Donations will be accepted in Bow boutique, Powerscourt Townhouse, Dublin 2, Ireland (you can post them too)  up until  Tue, Jan 26th

Auction will be live

Thurs Jan 28th (I'll post when it's up with a link)

We have set up a Facebook page called Talent for Haiti with details and updates.

You can contact me with any questions either here, in the comments section, or email me at

 

info@eilisboyle.com

If you could pass on the word we would really appreciate it.

picture of Shirley Temple from tvtropes

(original post snatched from the very talented Helen James)

The taming of the shrew...

 
There are fewer people on this planet who are further away from being a domestic goddess than I am. 

It's not because I'm not interested...I would love to cook  a gourmet dinner in 15 minutes as many of these 'personalities' do on TV .

I'm not sure why? It could be due to my incapacity to multi task if one of these requires timed attention.

But also growing up in Spain, were I was part the first generation who was liberated from male imposed obligations and consequently resisting any responsibilities that our mothers and grandmothers may have had. 

Whilst at school the theatre group, ironically,  produced the The Taming of the Shrew...and yes... guess who played Katherina...?  Is it a case of life imitating fiction?

Many years later and still not domesticated...

I do love cooking, it's like therapy, but when FEDEX  is at the door and both phones ring at the same time..the chances are the fire alarm will set off within minutes...as it does every other week.

From next week I'll be posting on my adventures and misadventures in the kitchen....if you have any challenging recipes let me know

bon appetit...

All I want for 2010 is time

 

'Time is a brisk wind, for each hour it brings something new...

but who can understand and measure its sharp breath,

 its mystery and its design?'

 

  Paracelsus

 

Photograph by Eduardo Macias. Clothes by Yours Truly 

Harvest Cook Eat

In December 2008 Mr. Silent and myself became the proud tenants of a little piece of land in County Meath, Ireland.

I'm not sure there was a specific reason for our desire to commit to some madness and a lot of pleasure, but  a combination of being more in touch with nature and growing our own vegetables could  have contributed to the decision.

Our lack of experience has resulted in a year where my skin started turning purple in June, after overdosing in beetroot, food poisoned by Jurassic Park sized courgettes (zucchinis) and eating spinach everyday for 4 or 5 months.. (Popeye would be proud)

I hope this year will result in a smarter harvest and I have to thank Helen James who has been my 911 call when I'm not sure if things are edible or not... I have a feeling our conversations will be even more frequent this year...

 

View of our allotment on the 1st of January 2010

 

Nature's creatures helping themselves to their share of the deal...

 

Our little helper is unaffected by freezing temperatures or snow..

 

Who, when and why?? Another rant about my wonderful fashion world..

I could use all my fingers and most of my toes to count the years I've worked in the fashion industry. 

My mother reminds me of events in the past that only confirm that it was a path I was destined to follow. (At the age of three I teared a dress off because it wasn't to my liking)...stubborn and determined..not much has changed..

 Alfred Eisenstaedt

I have written before about my incompatability and disagreement with many of the industry's manners and games. 

There is a basic logistical issue which I simply can't get my head around and have debated with many as to who, when and why did the season deliveries become a reflection of the lack of commonsense that my industry seems to operate by...

Last year one of my Japanese buyers asked for a Winter delivery in May!

I wasn't surprised as it just seemed like the next step in the ladder,  and in this business... the higher you go up the retail end, the earlier the delivery should be....even though you end up delivering 100% handknitted cashmere to New York in June.

Since August, I have become a retailer myself so for the first time I can experience and act on what it is pe0ple want...

Today is the 3rd of January, it's snowing and probably -3 degrees Celsius (26 Fahrenheit). I anticipate I will not sell a bikini in the shop until April..and what is flying out the door??...knitwear, coats and anything waterproof or thermal...

If I follow the industry standard I should be 'in sale' when the consumer requires my product the most... and I should be holding Spring Summer stock since the end of November....absurd absurd absurd..

I think for too many years the industry has been bullied by  financial advisers and bankers with their computer charts and excel sheets  instead of following the customer's real wants and needs... 

Commonsense and fashion may not go hand in hand but I am determined to continue my 'war dance' through this circus and just hope the gods will listen.....

Happy New Year!!!!

 

Wishing all silent and not so silent readers a very blissful 2010

Thank you for visiting and I hope we will all share many exciting stories in the New Year

 

And the winners are.....

 

A  list of my favourite fashion and film happenings this year...

1. A marriage made in heaven.....Chanel Couture for the English National Ballet

2.Vionnet Exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratives, Paris

 
 

3.  Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy...Couture Fall 2009

4. Book:  Isabel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out

5. The restored version of   The Red Shoes

6.  Giambattista Valli Pre Fall 2009... very few times does a pre-season outstage Ready to Wear or Couture collections

7. Alexander McQueen SS2010 show in October ( probably not very objective as I was there..) But I think he deserves to be on this list  first and foremost for pushing the bounderies in an industry where the unconventional borderlines the absurd (and yes his accessories are not for everyone but he is a master tailor and an incredibly gifted designer)..and secondly for trying to democratise the fashion world by broadcasting his show live via the internet ( even though Lady Gaga stole his thunder...)  
 

8. Tim Ryan. Simply because he is one of the most talented current Irish designers.

 

9. The original English version of  The Women (I had only seen it dubbed in Spanish) with  Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford, Rosalind Russell, Paulette Goddard and Joan Fontaine 

To be or not to be.....Couture

 Lacroix Autumn Winter 2009

For a long time I've wanted to raise the issue of the use and misuse of the word Couture.

Everything seems to be Couture today. High street t-shirts covered in glitter, fake snake skin shoes,  and even oversized gaudy costume jewellery.

It's like a disease....it's added to describe anything and everything, making it's definition confusing and misleading

This is not Couture and definitely not Haute Couture

Haute couture refers to the creation of exclusive clothing, made to order for a specific customer, and is  made from high-quality fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish.

"In France, the term Haute Couture is protected by law.

 To earn the right to call itself a couture  house, members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture must follow these rules:

• Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
• Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
• Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear. "

Not everyone can work from Paris, nor have 15 employees. But this should set a standard for its definition and use.

Shouldn't the term Couture - Haute Couture be protected by law, worldwide?

 I think it should......

Swimming against the current

 

In many occasions I have expressed my incompatibility with this industry. It is a love hate relationship. I somehow live in a fantasy world and try to do things my own way.  Making life slighlty more complicated.

My biggest reaction to the industry is the expiry date of collections. I have friends in other design disciplines who don't suffer from this terrible constraint.

I am constantly asked by press and buyers 'what season is this?' and 'what season is that...?' I find it very hard to answer.

Am I meant to bury work, which is my heart and soul, and sometimes has taken years to develop, within 12 weeks?

 This idea is ludicrous and has dominated the high volume high speed consumption train we have been on for the past years. 

To the detriment of good design; which is the essence of our craft in the first place...

This is why it has been my choice to share my work abstaining dates or seasons. 

As one reaches certain maturity in business one can decide what direction to take, rather than committing to what others require.

Fortunately the industry has slowed down and it means designers can breathe  again, once the financial burdens have been taken care of.

Nasrin from Morgan the Agency

Make up Aoife Redmond

Photography Eduardo Macias

Clothes by yours truly